Sunday, July 5, 2009

Days 5,6 & 7: Cappadocia











OK, hold on to your hats, folks (not your fez... that's not actually Turkish) - it's going to be a big post! The last three days have been the first leg of our road trip. We drove southeast of the capital Ankara to the Cappadocia region, where I've seen some of the most beautiful landscapes and natural wonders I've ever seen in my life!

Our first stop was at Salt lake which has such a high salt content that you can "walk on the
water." Actually, it means you can sludge through thick salt-sand under a mere two inches of water across the entire lake... all the while getting the best pedicure of your life!

Then we had lunch at an underground/cave restaurant where we were treated to seasoned meat slowly-cooked in terra-cotta pots and rice and traditional music on some sort of dulcimer.
Next we stopped at a famous local artisan - one of Turkey's finest pottery makers.
This is a family who has been making pottery in the same "cavernous" studio for
seven generations.

We got to see the artists at work at the kiln and when painting, and we saw a demonstration
of throwing the clay using an old-fashioned kick
wheel. What is unique about this family's work is that they use a quartz-based
clay and produce some of the best quality in the
country. So, of course I bought a piece! If you look at the picture of Julie holding a beautifully decorated bowl, you will get a sense of my purchase - a framed tile of the same family design.

So after a FABULOUS evening of traditional turkish dancing, costumes, and
all-around
tourist silliness,

we made our way back into the valleys of Cappadocia today in Goreme (see the "Luke I am your father pictures? Guess where the Tattooine secenes were filmed?!?!). This time instead of walking up into the monastery caves high above, we hiked down into the valleys to see the famous fairy chimneys from below.

This afternoon we went to see a demonstration of Turkey's famous carpet weaving.

We were led into a small room with 4 women working at a feverish pace at looms, knotting silk and wool on looms. The final product is absolutely gorgeous. We were brought into a large so room, served pide and chay, and shown carpets one by one, ranging in style, price and design. All I can say is WOW.
No, I didn't buy one of these (as much as I wanted to). Maybe next time. If only I could talk to one of those women to ask them what they would like to share with us about the carpet-making industry... I just might have to go renegade at the next "demonstration." according to the digital design in front of them. This was the viewing place only; there were apparently 800+ employees working somewhere, and the employer was quick to tell us that the women worked for 45 minutes at a time with every 15 minutes off because of the strain to their backs and fingers. I hope that's true...

And then, just when I thought we wouldn't fit another thing into our day (we are pushing ourselves really hard - I'm exhausted!), we went out to see the Whirling Dervishes! Yes, they are real! A particular Sufi sect of Islam, the Dervishes follow the philosophies of Rumi and
twirl as a way to reach a meditative, enlightened state that is most natural since "all things in nature spin." The show is actually a religious ceremony, so there is no photography, video, talking or applause until they come back out for a 30-second photo opportunity. So here's a taste - I'll look to copy a short video before I come home.

Whew! Well, that's it for now. Tomorrow is the big day - the hot air balloon ride over Cappadocia! Check back - I'm sure you won't be disappointed!


By the way - these are the views from my first two hotels. Sorry. :)

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